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Giving the C-Bot’s Octopus some glasses

I recently got OctoPrint working on my C-Bot.  It’s been pretty nice to remote-login and check my prints (and an emergency shutdown once during a jam).  One of the last remaining issues has been the quality of the timelapse video.

I’m using a Raspberry Pi camera module, and based on where I’ve mounted it (front top cross-member of the bot), plus the size of my build platform (12″ square), it prefers to focus on the rear of the platform, rather than the middle.  The effect is that anything from the middle to the front comes out blurry.

I’d read on the forums that you can use a pair of +2 reading glasses to pull that focal-distance closer, so I trekked to Walgreens today and picked up three pairs for $10 (It was 3 for the price of one):  I got these values to test: +1.25 (they were out of +1.5), +2, +2.5.

After popping them out of the frames, based on testing, it looks like the +2.5 increased the quality the best:  I was immediately able to see fine detail at the middle and front of the build platform.

But how to mount?  The pi_cam_head_v2.stl file sure wasn’t modeled to support reading glasses.  Hot glue to the rescue (aka, manual 3d printing) :

glasses

View is from the right-front corner of the build-platform, with the front leadscrew in-frame.

Making sure to first clean it really well, and center it on the camera itself, I simply ran a bead of hot-glue along the top and bottom edge of the lens, .

The only easy way to tell the difference is to compare the timelapse vid’s I’ve made to date:

  • First vid ever, low-res, low quality encoding, out of focusEiffel Tower

Only place to go from here is to mess with the encoding more, see if I can bring that quality up, and possibly get a fish-eye\wide-angle lens for it.

New 3D Print : Reindeer!

My wife asked me to print out a Reindeer for the holidays:  I found the “Holiday Christmas Deer” on Thingiverse, a great looking model.  Plus the shape of the model would take full advantage of the C-Bot’s build volume.  Print came out looking great.  And a new HD timelapse via Octoprint:

christmas_reindeer

You’ll notice at the 6 sec mark my hand go in for some “manual” supports 😉

Print Stats:

  • Model height:  20″
  • Print time: 9 hours
  • 2 shells, 8% “fast hexagon” infill.
  • 300 micron layer height
  • 6mm E3D-v6 Volcano nozzle
  • Sliced in Simplify3D
  • Printed at 90mm/sec
  • Gizmo Dorks blue PLA, extruded at 220 degrees.

New 3D Print : Eiffel Tower

I’d found a great model if the Eiffel Tower on Thingiverse:  I’d wanted to print it on my C-Bot for some time (since it seemed like a great way to maximize its build volume), but I knew with all the required retractions, the Bowden extruder would never handle it.  After recently switching to a direct-drive extruder, it seemed approachable again.  And with the recent attacks in Paris, I felt a desire to somehow pay my respects to that beautiful city, and landmark.

eiffel_tower

It didn’t go entirely smoothly though:  The extruder jammed when it hit first landing… I think all the super small handrails caused possible retraction issues, and the filament notched.  But I was able to reslice/reprint it right at that point, and glue the top on.  You’ll see this failure in the above movie… which was my first time making a timelapse in Octoprint, so the quality is a bit low as I figure out the settings.

The print looks fantastic, especially in the sun or with a light shining on it at night.  Really happy with the results.

Print stats:

  • Model height:  20″
  • Print time: 69 hours (yes, 69 hours)
  • 150 micron layer height
  • 6mm E3D-v6 Volcano nozzle
  • Sliced in Simplify3D
  • Just over a pound of material
  • Printed at 60mm/sec
  • Makergeeks white PLA, extruded at 230 degrees (per their recommendation)

Building the C-Bot 3D printer: Part 31 : Setting up Octoprint

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My previous post talks about the specifics of getting Octoprint setup, in general.  Here, I’ll talk about actually integrating it with my C-Bot 3D printer.

Up to this point I had a Raspberry Pi (upgraded to a v2 at this point) connected to my router via a USB wifi dongle, with a RaspberryPi Camera hooked to it, connected via a 3′ ribbon cable.  This was all sitting like a pile of spaghetti on my table.  I needed a way to get all this strapped to the C-Bot itself, which is what this post mainly talks about.  I should comment that during this process I gave up on the USB wifi dongle and switched to direct ethernet:  Just too many problems getting the wifi to stream the picam correctly.

Before we get into it, the end result:

3D Printed Items:

I needed a way to mount both the RPi2 to the frame of the C-Bot, and have some sort of adjustable mount for the camera.  Both of the below items were printed on my Makerbot Replicator 1.

RPi2 case:  After searching Thingiverse, I found this great looking “Raspberry Pi 2/B+ case with VESA mounts and more” file:  It both looks slick, has a slot for the RPiCam ribbon cable, and had holes to bolt it directly into the OpenBuilds V-Slot.  I should note the holes provided were too small for the V-Slot bolts:  I had to drill them out slightly, but once that was done it was easily mounted (see above pic, it sits on the right-front vertical arm).

PiCam Mount:  After more Thingiverse searching, I tracked down “B+ PiCam Ultimaker 2 timelapse harness” : This is both an adjustable arm to hold the cam, and a separate bracket for the cam:  I printed out all the files needed for the cam, and realized that it didn’t fit the 20×40 V-Slot: The ‘hook front’ piece was too wide to clamp properly.  I’d figured this would be the case, and created a modified version in Maya to narrow it, which is currently installed on the bot.  But if you don’t want to have to deal with this, I realized you can get a pack of small sticky-notes, and just tear-off the appropriate amount to create an easy-sized shim.  You can download my modified version on Thingiverse here.

Assembly:

  • I bolted the RPi2 case to the right-front 20×40 V-Slot extrusion.
  • I attached the PiCam mount on the right side of the top-front x-extrusion.  Zip-tied it down for safety.
  • My Rumba’s USB now runs directly into the Raspberry Pi 2.

Issues:

  • RPiCam ribbon:  Not easy to route, easy to catch things on.
  • Power to the RPi, the way I mounted it sticks out the side of the bot.  Easy to catch things on.

Final thoughts:  I’ve literally just started printing with it:  I usually print from either the C-Bot’s LCD, or from Simplify3D : So this is a whole new interface to learn (although, obviously similar to what I’m used to).  But I’m excited to start nocking out some timelapse movies :)

Building the C-Bot 3D printer: Part 30 : Switching from Bowden to Direct Drive

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The original design for the C-Bot by Carl Feniak had the printer setup with a Bowden extruder: The stepper pushing the filament to the hotend sat off to the side of the printer, thus removing mass from the XY/hotend gantry:  The idea is that if there is less moving mass, you can print faster with fewer artifacts (like “ringing” or “ghosting”).  For comparison, my Makerbot Replicator1 (or say, an Ultimaker) is ‘direct-drive’: Its extruder sits directly on the XY gantry pulling filament into the hotend.  This is what I had experience with when I started building the C-Bot, but the idea of learning something new (the Bowden setup) was interesting to me, so I went with it.

Fast-forward to now:  Not a fan of the Bowden setup, at least when used within the specs of my printer design:  I have a E3D-v6 Volcano nozzle (I’ve used .6mm & 1.0mm nozzles) on my bot, and that coupled with the Bowden design have had some quality issues I’ve been unable to overcome despite hours (days…) of test printing.  Specifically “blobs\zits” & stringing.  My guess is, simply too much pressure builds up in the (long) Bowden tube during an extrude move, so when the print goes to do a retraction, a blob still shoots out and gums-up the print, or strings out during movement.  Have not been happy with this behavior, and have been unable to remove it entirely.  Have greatly reduced it, but it’s always there… lurking…

And during this tuning process I came to the realization that a Bowden doesn’t really help things when you’re using a Volcano nozzle:  The benefit of the Bowden, again, is that it removes moving mass from the hotend, allowing you to print at faster speeds.  But with a Volcano, you actually end up printing at much lower speeds, just a greatly increased volume\flowrate.  Here’s some maths:

  • My Replicator1, with a .4mm nozzle, printing at 200 microns (‘medium res’ for that nozzle), at 120mm/sec, has a flowrate of 9.6 mm3/sec (mm cubed/sec).
  • The C-Bot, with a 1mm Volcano nozzle, printing at 500 microns (‘medium res’ for that nozzle) at 45mm/sec has a flowrate of 22.5 mm3/sec.

The C-bot printing at a little over 1/3 the speed of the Rep1, but over 2x faster print times overall (based on the flowrate).  And when you’re printing that slow, I personally don’t feel the moving mass has such a big effect.

On the flipside, if you’re building one of these bots and running a .4mm nozzle, the Bowden is probably ok:  Smaller nozzle, less pressure, less blobs & stringing.  But since I’ve never actually used one on my bot, this is only a guess.

Time goes by…

After some discussion on the Forms (starting on this page, where you can also find the files for download, and my detailed comments on its design), Carl created a new “beta” direct-drive system.  Which is just amazing of him to do, so again, many thanks Carl!  I printed them out on my rep1, spent an afternoon installing them, and what a difference!

The firs pic shows off the new direct-drive design, and a calibration print of two cylinders:  Zero stringing between them.  With the Bowden, it would look like a spider could live in there.

The 2nd print is of a 3dBenchy, with no cleanup: Almost no stringing or blobs.  Both prints used the .6mm Volcano nozzle.

For both of these, I’m using the same Simplify3D profiles as before, I just dropped the retraction from the 5ish-mm to 1mm.  So much more accurate!  Currently in the process of tuning them even more.

I also modified the rear-plate to accept the 40mm fan mount & duct as designed by trublu832 on OpenBuilds, and you can find his files here on Thingiverse:  No more dual fans, just one ducted one.

As of this post, Carl has released a new version of the parts I have yet to print, but I plan to soon.

But overall, if you plan to build one of these printers and use an Volcano nozzle, I’d highly recommend using this new hotend design.


Jump to C-Bot blog index to see all the posts.