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I’ve been interested in Voronoi diagrams for a long time: I really like the organic cellular structure they create.
I ran across a set of pluigins for Maya called SOuP that allow for the ‘shattering’ of 3d mesh via a Voronoi algorithm. I set about to writing a Python script I could apply to any volumetric polygonal solid in Maya to apply this shatter (the by-hand process is over on my Mel Wiki), and this vase was the first usable version I came up with: I modeled the smooth “interior” section of the vase first, and then generated a slightly larger version which I ‘shattered’, and booleaned the two together. It is now a trendy art-piece in my bathroom window. For the pics with the blue-glow, I just dropped a small LED in there .
Note, it is not water-tight: Just for fun I filled it with water: There’s still some sloshing around now inside the print…
Printed in about 5.5 hours, weights 85g, which works out to $1.91 in filament cost (for a $45 spool).
You can download the .stl for printing over on Thingiverse
I had some other experimental prints dealing with Voronoi shattering that led up to this one, which you can see in the below image:
The print on the far right was my first attempt: That was 12 hours in, before the printer stopped extruding But it shows off some of the cool infill patterns and support materials: It was a little over 3″ cubed, had it finished.
The print 2nd from the right printed successfully: I did a full volumetric shatter on another smaller cube. I duplicated the object in Maya: One of the objects I did the process where I convert the wireframe to a polygonal solid via blobby-particles. the other object I strategically deleted different Voronoi chunks, and then merged the two together. The final version looks like random polygonal volumes held together by spider-webs.
The remaining prints are unrelated, but make a nice backdrop
I got the idea to model the bust of a rhino, and print it in a “wireframe” style like I’d done with previous designs. This one is produced with a different wireframe creation technique however, where I instead generated blobby particles along the polygonal edges, and converted the results back into polygons.
I tried to minimize overhang issues by tracking the angle of the edges via a Python script in Maya. Very little cleanup was needed after print: No raft or support material needed.
The frame is actually a pattern I drew on some scrap MDF (nothing 3d printed there) , jigsawed out, and then routed the edges plus slapped on some white paint. Print is affixed via epoxy.
Modeled in Maya while sitting at a coffee shop near Stanford (man did I feel like I fit some sort of stereotype). After working on “Geo Necklace“, I wanted to try something slightly more complicated. This “bracelet” is two combined tori: The base is 8-sided, the top is 6-sided. No overhang issues, but I did have to pick out some interior loose filament. Spray-painted it two-tone blue/red.
Final Step: Building the enclosure, putting it all together…
There are a lot of Raspberry Pi enclosures over on Thingiverse ready for printing on my Makerbot Replicator. But I needed something to also support the Makey Makey. I knew I could modify one of those files, but I was interested in trying a different media, my MicroRAX kit. I’d done some mockups with it earlier (bookholder, quad-copter frame), but nothing permanent, and this seemed like the perfect use case. And it turned out great… other than the fact I actually had to have the Raspberry Pi in another enclosure, so that it wouldn’t short-out with all the exposed metal. Luckily I had an acrylic laser-cut case that came with my Maker Shed Raspberry Pi Starter Kit. Had I not had that case, I probably would have printed out a minimal one.
Other things I learned is that the Makey Makey can be driven directly off the RPi’s USB port: No external powerd USB hub needed.
The final hardware setup was thus:
Makey Makey connected to Raspberry Pi over USB.
Raspberry Pi powered via wall-wart.
Raspberry Pi connected to internet via Ethernet.
Raspberry Pi connected to stereo system over headphone-jack.
Whole thing wrapped up via MicroRAX.
The current on\off functionality is just pluggin\unplugging it : After it boots up, the first station in the play list fires off, and you’re good to go.
If I was to extend this project, these are some things I’d think about:
Switch out the tethered Ethernet for WiFi.
Hook up a battery-pack and speakers: Make it a portable boom-box.
Splice in a toggle-switch for on\off.
Have some sort of better integration with MPlayer & Python, or use some other music player entirely: Have LED’s that represent each station in the playlist that light up showing which one your on, or even a simple LCD screen broadcasting the station name and volume level.
Hook up awesome fruit to the MakeyMakey to make it a fruit activated radio turner. That one should be pretty easy
Overall it was a great learning experience for me to grasp the basics of linux, the Raspberry Pi hardware, and streaming internet radio.
I recently ran across a post showing what looked like (to me) “low poly wireframe 3d-printed jewelry”. Inspired me to try something similar on my Makerbot Replicator. Half an hour of modeling later in Maya, 51 minutes of printing (PLA), and I came up with the below design. Just a conceptual prototype of what could be in the future. I spray-painted it two-tone black\red so that it could be reversible. My lovely wife graciously let me photograph it on her neck: Wouldn’t fit on mine
Download the .stl and get other info over on Thingiverse.