Building the C-Bot 3D printer: Part 2 : Extruder Assembly

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I chose a E3D-v6 Volcano as my printer head of choice:   Since the volume of my new printer will be so big, I need a nozzle that can keep up.  I’ve never used any of their products before, but have read many good things.  Purchased a ’12v, 1,75mm, Eruption – Full Hotend (Bowden)’ kit from Filastruder.  I should note they included surplus mounting hardware (washers, bolts, crimp-tubes, etc).  While I didn’t need them, I always appreciate the extras (including gummy-bears).

It happened to be one of the first things to show up, so that’s why it get’s blogged about first 😉


Notes on the build process:

The E3d-v6 Assembly Guide is well written:  I really only got hung up on the thermistor wiring:  When cutting and installing the ‘glass-fiber sleeving’, the ends constantly fray:  I found it quite difficult to get the thermistor + it’s sleeving shoved into the small hole on the heat-block successfully with the frayed ends: I had to enlist a sewing needle from my wife to aid shoving the ends in.  Later, installing the ferrule’s (crimp-tubing) proved even more difficult, since they wouldn’t want to slide over the frayed sleeving.  I persevered, but it was a huge time suck involving very tiny things my fingers didn’t like to grip.

The only other (very minor) issue was that the screws used to hold the cooling fan in were slightly too long: They’re sticking out a couple extra mm, I just couldn’t get them screwed in the whole way without stripping their heads.  If I get really OCD I may cut a bit off the end with my Dremel.

Overall, it took me around 2 hours, but I was really taking my time, and constantly getting up to get tools since I did it in my living room instead of my workshop, and was babysitting multiple prints going on my Rep1…

The final result:

e3d-v6_volcano  Beautiful!

Must remember to do the “Final Tightening” stage before my first print.


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Building the C-Bot 3D printer: Part 1
Building the C-Bot 3D printer: Part 3 : Power Supply Modification
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